Did Wellington Save the Hope? — Part One

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

He certainly did save the hope of England, even of Europe, that June day in Belgium, on the battlefield of Waterloo. But the Hope to which I refer is a precious blue diamond, which, thanks to the efforts of the Duke of Wellington, was not lost to history. And shortly after he prevented its misappropriation, it was acquired by the man whose name it bears, even to this day.

The supposed curse which is attributed to the Hope Diamond is fiction. However, the true story of its real-life adventures are so much stranger than the plot of any novel. Now, how this rare blue diamond glittered its way across Europe, through the hands of crowned heads and cut-throats …

Continue reading “Did Wellington Save the Hope? — Part One”

Muff’s the Word!   by Regina Scott

As we move inexorably toward the winter months, choosing just the right accessories to keep our hands warm, snug and fashionable as we prepare for our outdoor activities is an important part of our toilet. But what about our Regency ancestors? What kinds of accessories did those ladies choose as they prepared for a walk or a drive in the frosty winter air?

In today’s article, award-winning romance author and past Beau Monde President, Regina Scott tells us about a lady’s accessory which might well have multiple purposes. How will you answer the questions she poses at the end of her article?

Continue reading “Muff’s the Word!   by Regina Scott”

Where are the Cairngorms?

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

Over the years, I have read many Regency novels set in Scotland, or which included Scottish characters. And yet, I have not found any mention of cairngorms in the pages of those novels, despite the fact that they are the very rock of Scotland itself. What happened to the cairngorms?

The stony story of the cairngorms of Scotland …

Continue reading “Where are the Cairngorms?”

The Wearing of Costume

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

Yet again, I have come across another unique and fascinating book while browsing at my local library. A book which I think many authors of Regency novels will find quite informative. This book is about exactly what the title says it is, how to wear the costumes of days gone by. The author’s stated purpose in writing the book was to provide information for actors in movies and plays, and for readers of historical novels, to help them imagine how the characters in the book they are reading would move, based on the constraints of the clothing of the time period in which the story is set. It would seem to me that this book would also be of use to writers of historical novels, as well as to those who enjoy re-enacting historical events.

Some of the more intriguing aspects of the wearing of clothing in England in times past …

Continue reading The Wearing of Costume

Regency Beauty — Part II by Ann Lethbridge

This is the second and final article in Ann Lethbridge’s series on Regency-era beauty products. As we learned from her last article, the use of these products was not restricted to ladies. There were a number of toiletry products which were also regularly used by men during the Regency. She includes an image of an eighteenth-century shaving stand which was sent to her by one of the readers of her first article. A most intriguing contraption.

Ann also offers a home recipe from the era on how to make one’s own lavender water. Once you understand its many benefits, would you consider making some?

Continue reading “Regency Beauty — Part II by Ann Lethbridge”

Regency Beauty — Part I by Ann Lethbridge

Regency romance author Ann Lethbridge’s most recent novel, Haunted by the Earl’s Touch, is in bookstores now. Today, she shares with us her research into Regency-era cosmetics and toiletries in this first of two articles. Did you know there were depilatories available during the Regency? And that there were also preparations available for men who had lost their hair and wanted to grow it back? The more things change it would appear, the more they stay the same.

Which of these preparations and practices would be part of your toilette?

Continue reading “Regency Beauty — Part I by Ann Lethbridge”

Fans from Victoria and Albert   By Cheryl Bolen

Cheryl Bolen reviews the Victoria and Albert Museum’s book on Fans in today’s article. She shares some of the history of the origin of the fan and its use in Georgian England. Fans have had a place in many Georgian and Regency novels since the origin of the genre. Do you remember that scene in Georgette Heyer’s These Old Shades, when Justin, Duke of Avon, used his new fan of chicken skin to annoy his friend, Hugh Davenant? How many romance heroines have employed a fan to great effect in a dalliance with the hero?

Fans are one of those lovely accouterments of a bygone age which few of us use today. But they are still fascinating to many of us, nonetheless. Delicate and beautiful, they can become a weapon in the hands of a woman who knows how to wield it. Fair warning, if you read this review, you may find yourself with a strong desire to own a copy of this book yourself.

Continue reading Fans from Victoria and Albert   By Cheryl Bolen”

It’s What’s on Top That Counts   By Regina Scott

Regina Scott, Regency romance author, spent some time in Washington, D. C. during a cold snap. The sudden appearance of a plethora of hats in the city prompted her to think about the hats and bonnets worn by so many of those who lived during the Regency. In today’s article, Regina shares her thoughts about Regency hats.

Continue reading “It’s What’s on Top That Counts   By Regina Scott”

The Pocket Housewife

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

No, this is not the married version of the "pocket venus" who makes her small but mighty appearance in the occasional Regency novel. Yet both terms did have their origins in the mid-eighteenth century. However, though "pocket venus" was a term for a beautiful, curvaceous woman of small stature, the housewife to be discussed here was, and is, even today, extremely useful and can be quite lovely, but is not human at all. This small item found favor with both women and men during the Regency.

Recently, Charles Bazalgette published a brief article on his blog, Prinny’s Taylor, about an item which was supplied to the Prince of Wales’ household by his ancestor, Louis Bazalgette, who was tailor to the Prince for thirty-two years. This item, "a striped silk Housewife," is described as being filled with various sewing notions and intended for the use of the Prince’s pages. Mr. Bazalgette was not quite sure what this item actually was, and I realized that there are probably many others who might not be familiar with these "housewives," and how they were made and used during the Regency.

Continue reading “The Pocket Housewife”

Courting and Marriage in the Regency   by Cheryl Bolen

Are you planning a big wedding scene in your next Regency novel, the bride in a brand-new white wedding gown and veil, a flock of bridesmaids in matching gowns, and a church-ful of guests throwing rose petals as the happy couple leaves the church? You may want to re-think all of that after you read the article Cheryl Bolen has for us today.

How couples really courted and married in Regency days …

Continue reading “Courting and Marriage in the Regency   by Cheryl Bolen”

What is Shagreen?

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

And why should you care? Well, it was everywhere during the Regency, and the word actually referred to more than one material, each of which could be put to a different purpose, though all were somewhat similar in appearance. The uses for shagreen ranged from carpentry to scientific instruments to high fashion.

Those living in the Regency would have known the difference, and I thought perhaps those of us who like to slip back to that decade through novels set during that time would like to share that knowledge. To avoid chagrin, or perhaps, to embrace it?

Continue reading “What is Shagreen?”

The Origins of the Modern Look Men’s Clothing by Maggi Andersen

 The Origins of the Modern Look Men’s Clothing

18th Century –  21st Century by Maggi Andersen

I don’t pretend to be an expert on fashion. I wanted to show some of the changes which have taken place over the last few hundred years to men’s clothing, as well as the styles which have remained constant.

I’ve added a few tidbits I thought might be of interest. I’ve had to be selective here –the military influence on fashion, for example, is for another blog.

Continue reading “The Origins of the Modern Look Men’s Clothing by Maggi Andersen”

A Primer on Regency Era Women’s Fashion by Kristen Koster

A Primer on Regency Era Women’s Fashion by Kristen Koster.

Regency Era Women’s Fashion: Parisian Ladies in their Full Winter Dress
“Parisian Ladies in their Full Winter Dress for 1800”, an over-the-top exaggerated satirical Nov. 24th 1799 caricature print by Isaac Cruikshank, on the excesses of the late-1790s Parisian high Greek look, and the too-diaphanous styles allegedly sometimes worn there. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This is an overview of women’s fashions in the Regency Era and the apparel they changed in and out of multiple times per day. This list isn’t exhaustive by any means and is rather representative of the upper classes rather than the working classes, but should give a good foundation in recognizing what an author is talking about and why they’re so focused on their characters being fashion conscious.

Before we get into the individual items of clothing, it’s important to realize some phrases we use today didn’t mean quite the same thing 200 years ago. For example, when we say “She was in a state of undress.” or “She was caught en dishabille.” The folks of the regency wouldn’t have batted an eye. It was quite common for ladies to entertain guests in their boudoirs while dressed in comfortable, but concealing gowns and robes. The terms “undress”, “half-dress” and “full-dress” were degrees of formality, not coverage.

“Undress” meant simply casual, informal dress in the Regency period. This would be the type of dress worn from early morning to noon or perhaps as late as four or five, depending on one’s engagements for the day. Undress was usually more comfortable, more warm, more casual, and much cheaper in cost than half dress or full dress.

“Half Dress” is perhaps one of the most difficult concepts to grasp about Regency Fashion. Basically it is any dress halfway between Undress and Full Dress. In modern terms it might be thought of as dressy casual or casual business attire in terms of formality, if not style.

“Full dress” was the most formal kind of dress in a Regency Lady’s wardrobe. Full dress was worn for the most formal occasions — evening concerts and card parties, soirees, balls, and court occasions. “Evening dress” referred to outfits suitable only at evening events, but was a specific subset of “full dress”.

Regency Era Women’s Fashion: 1817 walking costume
1817 walking costume                       (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Continue reading “A Primer on Regency Era Women’s Fashion by Kristen Koster”

The Art of the Cravat for the Regency Gentleman by Kristen Koster

Following on from her Primer of Men’s Regency fashion, Kristen Koster now explains The Art of the Cravat for the Regency Gentleman.

One of the fun things about writing historicals is you have to learn all this really cool trivia. You need to be able to set the stage and do it in a believable manner. This includes how to properly dress your characters.

Contemporary heroes have life easy. They pretty much only have to know how to tie a half-Windsor knot and their heroines always step in to rescue the day if they’ve forgotten or get fumble-fingered. And then there’s the clip-on bow tie for formal wear.

Not so the Regency rake! His valet was under much more pressure to make his master presentable and indeed, even to shine above the rest and be perceived as unique. Instead of a couple of basic ways to tie that already nicely formed strip of silk that’s decorated in a rank suitable fashion, the Regency buck (or at least his man) was expected to be familiar with a far more numerous array of styles.

Continue reading “The Art of the Cravat for the Regency Gentleman by Kristen Koster”

A Primer on Regency Era Men’s Fashion by Kristen Koster

This post on Regency era men’s fashion was originally posted on Kristen Koster’s blog.

Regency Era Men’s Fashion

Regency Era Men’s Fashion: Beau Brummell wears a Regency dress coat as daytime dress. The coat is able to close and the tails are knee length. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Beau Brummell wears a Regency period dress coat as daytime dress. The coat is able to close and the tails are knee length. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The terms Undress, Half Dress, and Full Dress were applied to men and women.

For men, “Undress” would include having his jacket and cravat removed, something that was not done in polite or mixed company if the gentleman could avoid it. Dressing gowns and robes also fit this bill for gentlemen lounging at home.

“Half Dress” for men would be less elaborate knots in their neck cloths, much simpler and more casual styles of clothing.

“Full Dress” and “Evening Dress” are the equivalent of today’s black tie affairs. Almack’s was a special case, where gentlemen of the ton were expected to wear breeches instead of trousers.

Continue reading “A Primer on Regency Era Men’s Fashion by Kristen Koster”

Alphabet of Gems:  The Language of Stones During the Regency

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

First introduced in France as the eighteenth century slipped into the nineteenth, and despite the ongoing Napoleonic wars, this particular type of sentimental jewelery soon crossed the English Channel to become all the rage in England, just as the Prince of Wales was poised to become Regent. The majority of this kind of jewelery had a romantic theme, though there were instances when it was used to register political protest. Though these jeweled messages were very popular in Regency England, they have yet to find their way into any Regency romance which I have come across.

How precious gems first began to express tender sentiments, two hundred years ago …

Continue reading “Alphabet of Gems:  The Language of Stones During the Regency”

The Reticule, or The Lady’s Pocket Exposed

A cross-post from The Regency Redingote:

I first learned of the existence of that small lady’s handbag, the reticule, from the novels of Georgette Heyer. Later, as a museum curator, I had the opportunity to see a number of actual Regency-era reticules, both in person and in museum photographs. As I continued to research these often exquisite little bags, I discovered they had their origins in the late eighteenth century. Prior to that time, ladies carried their personal essentials in pockets under their skirts. Not in their skirts, under their skirts.

So, when and how did the lady’s pocket come out from under her skirt and make its debut as the reticule?

Continue reading “The Reticule, or The Lady’s Pocket Exposed”

Postage Stamp Booklet covers

Here are some gorgeous Postage Stamp Booklet covers featuring clothing to add to our series on Posting in the Regency period. The British Post office has issued stamp booklets with illustrated covers for many years, and they ran two series showing costumes through the ages.

These three were designed by Eric Stemp, printed by Harrisons & Sons Limited.

Postage Stamp Booklet covers

Booklet issued on May 6th 1981 value: £1.40 Women’s costumes, 1800-1815

Booklet issued on Sep 30th 1981 value:£1.40 Women’s costumes, 1815-1830

Booklet issued on Feb 1st 1982 value: £1.55 Women’s costumes, 1830-1850

via Clothing.   (Thanks once again to earsathome.com for the information)

Introduction to 19th-century fashion – Victoria and Albert Museum

Introduction to Fashion

At the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, there is a wonderful summary of fashion in the 19th century. There’s a snippet below and more is available at their site.

Men’s Dress

By the early 19th century men’s fashions had also undergone a radical change. The coat still finished in long tails at the back but was cut higher in front. The waist-length square-cut waistcoat showed beneath it. The lining of the shoulders and upper chest of the coat was sometimes quilted to improve the fit. In the early 19th century some dandies wore boned corsets to give them a small waist.

Gradually men adopted long trousers rather than knee breeches. Trousers became increasingly fashionable in the first quarter of the 19th century. At first they were only worn for day and informal dress but by the 1820s they were acceptable for evening wear. Breeches continued to be worn at court.

The tall hat from the late 18th century was still worn and developed into the top hat which was worn for day and formal dress throughout the 19th century. Hair was carefully styled into a windswept look or worn short and curled.

During the second half of the 19th century men retained the white waistcoat and black tail-coat and trousers of the early 19th century for evening wear. For day wear they wore a frock coat with straight trousers, a short waistcoat and a shirt with a high stiff collar. The single- or double-breasted frock coat fitted quite closely to the torso and had a waist seam. The skirts were straight and finished at mid-thigh or below. The front of the coat was square cut. Hair was still styled but by the late 19th century it was short and cut close to the head. Many men had beards and moustaches.

Women’s Dress

As the 19th century progressed women’s dress gradually revealed the actual form of the body. In the 1820s and 1830s the waistline deepened, returning to its natural position. As the natural waist returned the bodice required a tighter fit and in contrast the skirt became fuller and bell-shaped. There were several different sleeve styles but short puffed sleeves were generally worn for evening and long sleeves for day. Corsets continued to be worn. These were lightly boned and quilted, with a deep busk. Several layers of petticoats with frilled hems, sometimes of horsehair, were worn to support the full skirts. Some petticoats of the 1840s were feather-quilted. Later examples of the 1850s and 1860s were made of ‘crin’ and steel hoops. The term ‘crinoline’ is derived from the French word crin which means horsehair.

This fashion plate from 'Ladies' magazine of 1801 shows the characteristic high waistline of the time. Museum no. E.249-1955
1801 Fashion Plate with characteristic high waistline

This fashion plate from ‘Ladies’ magazine of 1801 shows the characteristic high waistline of the time. Museum no. E.249-1955

Dress with a pattern that complements the shape created by the cage crinoline worn underneath it. Museum no. T.702-1913
Dress with cage crinoline underneath

Dress with a pattern that complements the shape created by the cage crinoline worn underneath it. Museum no. T.702-1913

Bonnets or hats were worn outdoors and linen caps indoors. During the 1820s hair styles became very elaborate with raised top knots and the crowns of bonnets or hats were designed to accommodate them. By the middle of the century, by contrast, hairstyles had become smooth with a central parting finished with ringlets on either side of the face and a small bun at the back or simply swept back from the face to a chignon (a mass of hair arranged on a pad at the back of the head and held in place with a net or snood). Bonnets and hats continued to be worn until the 1860s when small, elegant styles appeared which simply perched on top of the head.

Clothing in the Regency Period

Clothing in the Regency Period is the first part of a series  to be posted here courtesy of the fantastic collection of information on Postal History at The Ozzie connection. 

                                             England 1811-1830

At this time, the social classes were kept very much apart, and the ‘upper ten thousand‘ lived a totally different life from their servants, who were housed, clothed and fed in accordance with their employers whims and prevailing fashions.

For the aristocracy and the gentry, the distinguishing feature of women’s dress at the end of his reign was the enormous breadth caused by the width of the skirt and the extreme fullness of the sleeves. Unlike the very high-waisted styles of previous fashions, skirts began at the natural waistline and so appeared shorter, and this exaggerated the squat impression of the whole costume.

However, that is not the impression given by the illustrations below, as the general impression in these drawings is slender and graceful. When compared to the present-day fashions, they do seem long.

Hairdressing was very elaborate, the hair being built up from the head and crowned with flowers, feathers or jewelled combs. Fashion was still important, even if a Monarch had died, and during the mourning for George IV, black and white crepe flowers were used to decorate the hair in full dress, which was fairly simple, muslin being most usual, and when mourning was over, this was generally white.

If coloured, dresses were of one colour only, the favourites being rose, blue or lilac. Naturally, these fashions did not apply to the servants, although on the death of the King, they would have been dressed in some kind of black clothing to show respect.

Postage Stamp Booklet covers

The British Post office has issued stamp booklets with illustrated covers for many years, and they ran two series showing costumes through the ages. These three were designed by Eric Stemp, printed by Harrisons & Sons Limited.

Booklet issued on May 6th 1981 value: £1.40 Women’s costumes, 1800-1815

Booklet issued on Sep 30th 1981 value:£1.40 Women’s costumes, 1815-1830

   

Booklet issued on Feb 1st 1982 value: £1.55 Women’s costumes, 1830-1850

Posted with permission of the authors at The Ozzie Connection.